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At the Souq

More reflections on Hunger..

In Nepal and Cambodia the children were so small. Super cute, but small. Ask them their age and it is astounding. The Khmer girl in the photo below was 16. She sold us our bread every day. I used to play with her like a child. When I found out how old she was, that she had never been to school, that she worked every day of her life, I just felt sad every time I saw her.

You see, they don't get enough nutrition for their little bones to grow to their potential. You can read more here and here. But that is not the only thing that does not grow, lowered mental development in children is another effect of hunger and poor nutrition. Not only were they born in some of the hardest places on the planet, but they are mentally and physically behind as well. What hope do they have? If a country's future rides on the shoulders of the next generation, what happens if half of that generation don't get enough to eat? (click here for a photo Essay). What will that future look like I wonder?

The young western Nepalese man holding his daughter below (her hair is bleached of colour due to malnutrition) had just answered our drought survey questions. We had just asked him when his rice-stocks were going to run out. His reply was two weeks. When we then asked what he was planning on doing after that his response was simply "I do not know".

WFP = We Feed People

I do not often write about my work.  Mainly due to the extremely sensitive nature of the country I am based in and the situation for foreigners working here. And many people who ask me what I do seem to have difficulty in understanding how I could enjoy this kind of work- surely its just a case of Logistics? It is, but it is also much more. And the more is the part I enjoy. Food is the most powerful thing on the planet. It controls our every move. There is oil spilling from the soils of this big, wide land, there are Sudanese millionaires scattered around the globe.  And yet, food is the ultimate weapon of mass destruction.

And of course, food is politics. Who has it, who does not, who promises how much of it to who, and what conditions it is ‘donated’ with. Most of all, I think food is injustice. Every 5 seconds a child dies of hunger, somewhere in the world. 18,000 children dead from hunger every single day.  Money, violence, insecurity and politics are part of this seemingly simple task of giving food to those without. Along with nutrition and health and water and education and access and sustainable livelihoods. Its complicated. The concept begins and ends with saving lives but there's so much in between. I learn something new every day..

Walking Home

I took this shot walking home from work the other week. The weather is changing in Sudan. Winter is approaching. Soon the days will be under 40 degrees and the sun will set by 6pm. Seasonality is so important I think. It makes me feel the tangible nature of time and think about what I have achieved so far and where I am going next.

How does the weather in your part of the world these days make you feel? 

A new decade

I always tend to be a bit overly contemplative and reflective on Birthdays. This year more so for me I think. For a few reasons. My location for one. Living in one of the poorest places on earth, scarred by fighting has adjusted my perspective, on my own life and on the core human nature that shapes and binds us all.

Also, this year I am alone. I think of all the people and animals who have touched my life over 30 years and wish I could have handpicked my top 50 and had them all around me yesterday. But instead I was alone with my oldest and longest companion. But we get along pretty well these days.

Past birthdays were also in my thoughts - especially the joy of the previous two years, which were magical times in my life, surrounded by beautiful people in the place where I feel the most like myself - the Mountains. 2008 was spiritual, with two kindred spirits by my side and a pot of good tea brewing. 2007 was crisp Himalayan winds brushing my face and five wonderful people overflowing with laughter. I miss those days.. But perhaps we can't have a magical birthday every year, or the magic would become unrecognizable. So maybe I have some more magic headed my way in the years to come. Where will I be next year I wonder?

Dali Gompa, Darjeeling, India

10th November, 2008

Ulleri, Annapurna region, Nepal

10th November, 2007

Willoughby and Ripley

Not the least hard thing to bear when they go from us, these quiet friends, is that they carry away with them so many years of our own lives.

- John Galsworthy

Laziz!

Laziz means delicious and its a good word for the food in Darfur.

Fatour (a big lunch eaten around 11am) can be simple (Fhoul (beans, oil, vegies) and flat bread) or slightly more extravagant (such as below). Assida is common (in the middle of the table), with a doughy consistency, is made from the staple Sorghum and is covered in a bean sauce usually. Cheeses are good, oil is plentiful and, as in every African country, meat is king.

There is no such thing as individual plates in this country, sharing is caring. Like many wonderful cultures, Sudanese food is eaten only with the right hand (thumb and first two fingers only) and its a rather messy afair. But after becoming an expert at dal bhat over the past 2 years, I have impressed the locals with my abilities. Dig in.

School Days...

Breakfast in a girls school in El Fasher, Northern Darfur.
Food supplied by WFP = Lentils, CSB (above), Oil & Sugar.